New York Times – Just outside San Francisco a Wild Coastline

A review of the Coastline Traveling South from San Francisco

JUST 10 miles south of San Francisco, the California coastal highway emerges from a landscape of subdivisions and suburban commercial strips to confront the Pacific Ocean in all its most imposing and treacherous grandeur. The road — Highway 1, far north here of the famous Big Sur stretch better known to tourists.

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The next morning, after a deep, salt-air sleep at the Davenport Roadhouse, named for a whaler whose landing here became a bustling loading zone during prohibition, we set out for Año Nuevo State Natural Reserve, where the huge, lumbering creatures known as elephant seals come to mate, birth, nurse, molt and rest.